Who is who in English fashionable business?

Hussein  Chalayan, 30 years, the favourite of fashionable party. Last January declared closing of the House, having caused considerable displeasure of the adherents. Despite commercial failures, Chalayan remains to one of the most talented young designers of Great Britain. Its magnificent dresses in style hi-tech (high-tech) have opened road to new style - less open, but to more intellectual that has brought to Hussein a rank of the best designer of year in 1998 and 2000. That to a financial position of Chalayan has found new partners and, obviously, it will allow it to return with triumph on a podium in the spring of 2002.

The creative director
Katy England, 35 years. It is the fashionable director of magazine "Dazed and Confused" and its logic continuation - magazine "Another Magazine" which will be started in the near future. It also is the creative director of the company of the House of Alexander Makkuina and creative adviser Uth Women. In other words - it that force which stands up for many modern lines of the British fashion.

The founder of footwear
Mario Blahnik , 58 years. The most known and most influential founder of footwear in the world. Its creations - a mix of charm, sexuality, the status and a delicate taste. Blahnik has started to work still in far the seventieth and try on shoes to all known Cinderellas of this world - beginning from Tiny Chou and finishing Keit Moss.  Blahnik creates footwear for the largest designers and possesses huge influence on young generation.

Founders of fabrics
Wakako Kishimoto, 34 years, and Mark Eley, 33 years. A married couple successfully mastering new spheres of business. With unusual motives, like the dancing tulips, falling stars, bright flashes and naive children's colours it is possible to meet their graceful fabrics everywhere. At the moment spouses actively master the market of house interiors with design of new wall-paper and house ware.

 

The stylist and the expert in public relations (PR)
Katie Grand, 30 years. The director of magazine "The Face", the editor leaving two times in a year of magazine Pop, stylist Luella Bartley, Dave and Joe and new mark House of Jazz. Кэйти the most known and popular stylist at the British youth. Recent closing of cult line Bottega Veneta (which stylist also was the Grandee) has made only insignificant impact on a fast eminence of this woman

 

Photographers
Mert Alas, 30 years, and Marcus Piggot, 31 year. At the moment it is two most known fashionable photographers in the British industry of a fashion. Their portfolio includes the companies of such known firms, as Missoni, Sportmax, Sergio Rossi, Gucci Rush and Gucci Envy. Refined illumination and love to unusual accessories does by their legislators of style.

 

The owner of a boutique

Dzhoan Bernstein (Joan Burnstein) - within thirty years Bernstein remained the most known and influential person in English fashionable business. It is the proprietress of a boutique of Braunz (Browns), London. In it for the first time there were things Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Comme des Garзons. Dzhoan stands up for John Galjano and Hussein Shalajana's success.

The chairman of the British Council on the Fashion

Nicholas Coleridge, 44 years. Except discharge of duties of the chairman of the British Council on the Fashion, Koleridzh also is chief executive Conde Nast, and also is responsible for a policy of magazines Vogue, GQ, Glamour, Tatler and Travelle. As chairman BFS it has started the duties last year. Its main task - to hold an English fashion in focus. While it is possible.

The creative director
Ronni Cook Njuhauz. In forty with a tail this American has managed to become the important part of English fashionable business. It edits Japanese Vogue, searches and supports young talents, works over image Comme des Garons, Topshop and Topman. Ронни married beyond Dzhonatanom Njuhauzom (Jonathan Newhouse) - chairman Condе Nast International.

The chief executive British Vogue
Alexander Schulman (Alexandra Shulman), 43 years. The present guru of a fashion here nine years. At it the magazine has received as though the second breath, winning all new tops and becoming really the best fashionable magazine in Great Britain. It is distinguished by the non-standard approach to the decision of arising problems, креативность and авангардность. At the same time the magazine contains a healthy portion of the British pragmatism and honesty.
 

 

 

The fashionable director of magazine Vogue
Lucinda Chambers, 42 years. Has come to magazine in 21 year and became the assistant well-known Beatrix Miller. In 1997 Ljusinda herself became fashionable director Vogue, having deserved the British Council award on the Fashion in 1999 and 2001 as the best stylist of year. It the first has in the eighties started to work with Mario Testino unknown to anybody (Mario Testino)

The designer
Alexander McQueen, 32 years. The British designer of year representing all best that is in an English fashion - energy, talent, creativity, tradition and propensity to shocking. And it the unique designer, dared to create the Fashion house on the English earth. Support Gucci has allowed McQueen to master the new world markets - in October the boutique in Tokyo will be opened, in 2003 there will be a perfume from McQueen and in October of this year in Paris display of a collection of the English designer is expected

 

The designer
Sophia Kokosalaki, 28 years. The Englishwoman of the Greek origin took storm the British fashionable industry. Thanks to Sofia girls have put on in the big boots, pink dresses and a black tulle. Кокосалаки represents the shocking party of an English fashion.

 

The designer and the entrepreneur
Sir Paul Smith (Sir Paul Smith), 54 years - the most successful fashionable designer of Great Britain, which thing necessarily should be present at a collection of any English gentleman within more than 20 years. Its suits carried Tony Blair and Robbie Williams. The majority of designers do not hesitate to address for consultations to "godfather". Sir Paul's philosophy connects traditional character and easy self-irony, and its female collection on an iota does not concede the man's.
 

The designer
Stella McCartney, 29 years. Became the present fashionable icon for those to whom it was already executed twenty with a tail. Four years spent by Stelloj in House Chloе, became the present event not only in English, but also in the French fashion. Its sexuality, an unusual combination of styles and creativity have made its one of the most popular and quoted designers in the world. This autumn Stella McCartney is going to debut with own collection (with group Gucci support). Among admirers of creativity of Stelly it is possible to meet the Madonna, Gvinet Peltrou and Liv Tyler

 

Dendizm

Dandyism - the original phenomenon which has arisen in the beginning of the nineteenth century. It is possible to name it «virtual aristocratism» as it is considered in the way to show the refined taste in gestures and manners, without being allocated thus from crowd. A dandyism - the harmonious middle between vanguard radical style and respectable, but a little dullish conservative.

The founder of major principles of a dandyism George Bremmel who has generated in due time some of key rules of behaviour of the dandy is considered:

1) to be surprised to nothing;

2) keeping impassivity to amaze with unexpectedness;

3) to leave, as soon as the impression is reached.

In spite of the fact that the image of the dandy is created by a number of factors, more all we наслышаны about its fashion. The main thing in a suit of the dandy - deliberate negligence and naturalness. Even if "dandy" has spent a great lot of time, means and forces for creation of the image, in a suit it keeps so as if there was this all in itself, is casual and for few minutes. The impression of ease and improvisation are those lines which so involve in style of the dandy. For example, the knot on a tie should be elegant, but negligent, weakened.

In spite of the fact that a dandyism it is accepted compare with fashionable, its representatives actively deny similar semantic parallels. Style of the dandy is not only rapid fashion, but also one of forms of culture, an aesthetics.
The phenomenon of style of the dandy is considered in a number of literary works. In particular. Known writer Rolan Bart. He names the dandy people who aspire to bring a refined suit to perfection, to subordinate to its absolutely strict logic. The dandy aspires to create the individual image relieved of comparison with someone already existing or from reckoning to a concrete social class. The dandy understands that the clothes are not a ready thing, and the object which is subject to processing.

Choosing clothes, it is necessary to pay attention to the invoice and quality of a material. The fabrics a metallic creating surprising semitone at changing illumination, and also the graduated colouring are actual.


From the moment of occurrence of a phenomenon of the dandy, it gradually enters into haute couture world. Perhaps, today any more so it is difficult to rank itself as the world stylish, negligent and elegant: it is enough to follow actual tendencies, and, certainly, to choose from them what will look harmoniously.

The fashionable outer clothing of the dandy offered by designers in this season, are raincoats, jackets and a coat. Raincoats are presented by trench-cats who the breed remind an epoch of the fortieth years with unique image to Hemfri Bogarta in "Casablanca". Popular jackets - "pilots" and the pea jackets casting memoirs on an epoch of the Pilot. Dominating colour still remains elegant grey, won liking even in the autumn. It is desirable to use at once some shades grey, passing from light to the dark. So it is possible to dilute monotony and to underline It is a lot of layers invoices.

Certainly, even the most interesting shade of the grey demands juicy addition: for example, the belt of the sated colour, a bright jumper or a scarf wound round a collar will look very stylishly. Bright buttons on a shirt of a dark shade can become valuable addition. Some colours are popular: yellow, мандариновый and korallovo-red which become invaluable addition to ultrafashionable grey, presented in amazing shades: from wet asphalt to маренго.

Instead of a scarf it is possible to put on a tie-herring - this form is extremely popular in this season.

Casual

Casual – so name “dandies on an English fashion” in Europe, meaning directly that the person watches a fashion of leading English firms and the European labels. Today style Casual to become scale for Russia, especially the aspiration to put on on an English fashion increases in two capitals of Russia – Moscow and St.-Petersburg.

Than the English fashion differs from a fashion of all other world? All! The English clothes are considered more comfortable, elegant (especially conservative models), and, most likely, most expensive (for Russia and the CIS is exact).

In an English fashion a lot of attention is given to youth style. The brightest representative of an English youth fashion is firm MERC and though among people "fashionable" this firm is rather obsolete, nevertheless it is necessary to pay attention that of model of this manufacturer very various, bright enough and comfortable. MERC are not a classical club British fashion with which modern Great Britain associates, after all MERC it is the present London fashion.

Firm MERC has been based in 1967 in the Southern part of London. Almost all English youth firms existing in 60, concerning style Casual, rushed in due time mainly “English football hooligans” and "dandy". Today MERC became modern and independent enough, and classically subtleties of "sixtieth" are rather notable, but at all conservative you will not make, if you do not want that.

The weight of firms-something ephemeral copies today MERC, but to its level nevertheless do not rise. Often "Grew dim" strongly enough gives tones of such firms as Mark Spencer and Lacoste, but all the same the individuality does not lose.

In a kind of popularity of firm MERC it is possible to meet, apparently, a fake where instead of “It is made in England”, “it will be made in Europe” or “It is made in Portugal”. It is not necessary to be frightened it. Because of popularity of this label last years firm "Grew dim" under the official agreement is made by half of Europe.The style approached to “to English сasual’у” (frequently with impurity) is inherent in such musical groups, as: Delirious, Kato, Steve, Mae, Anberlin, Stereo Motion, Fono, All star united, Cool hand Luke, Luna Halo, Starflyer 59, etc.

Secular representatives of this style casual, first of all, concern: Blur, Travis, Keane, then Oasis, Rialto, Pulp, Franz Ferdinand (at last four, as a rule, more strict style), Mansun, The Verve (Richard Ashcroft), Maroon5, Coldplay, Manic street preachers, etc.
Style «Vogue»
For individual clients the London fashion houses offered models in the Latin American style which was a symbol of a peace life (as well as during the First World War, Latin America and Spain did not participate in war): with the expanded skirts with frills from stuffed fabrics with a flower pattern or in the peas, combined from different fabrics; the wide-brimmed straw hats decorated with flowers.
This style was especially propagandised in the Hollywood films which, despite difficulties of the message, appeared and in Britain.
Magazine "Vogue" advertised models "Utiliti", printing photos of models in standard dresses, suits and a coat and even in complete sets with trousers.
In London during war magazine "Vogue" with fine photos that was considered necessary as one of means of a raising of fighting spirit of the nation continued to leave.
Style of photos, as well as in the American edition of magazine "Vogue", has changed — instead of 1930th found to a photo which did more often in pavilion, carefully building illumination and poses of models, there were photos in style of the photochronicle and репортажной shootings.
Models photographed in the street, on a bicycle, against ruins of the destroyed by bombing houses.
S.Bitona even reproached with cynicism for such photos.
In 1941г in staff of American magazine "Vogue" Alexander Liberman arrived of Paris has been accepted.
It has brought in a fashionable photo «непозирующин realism», publishing I.Penn's photo (since 1942 in «Vogue») and R.Avedona.

British and a fashion

England, the country, mention about which associates with concepts - "tradition", "foundations", "quality" and which it is accepted to name «old and kind», style today dictates and creates directions of a modern fashion.
London is one of chief towns where the world fashion is born. In many-sided London streets century traditions perfectly get on with ultramodern tendencies, here there is a place and for conservatism and the reserved classics and for the most unexpected innovative ideas.
Times and styles, intertwining among themselves, form that well-known London street fashion for which are characteristic aspiration to individuality, eccentricity and a freedom connected to absolute tolerance. You can connect everything in the suit that the soul will wish. Appearance is a private affair. Nobody will steadfastly consider you and condemn to turn around to you in a trace.
In streets of the British capital cosmopolitan atmosphere predominates, here it is a lot of immigrants from the different countries, and the style variety giving a fertile field for occurrence new and unusual in fashion is connected with it. In the London streets many designers find sources of inspiration for fresh collections.Для Englishmen in a fashion individualism is important. In their non-standard and free manner to put on there is a certain game element, instead of following to frame rules and stereotypes which dictate glossy authorities.
In Englishmen the lung, even the a bit scornful relation to clothes is felt. And those who does not rank itself as dandies, are dressed very simply and simply. People have got used to that in England the fashion industry prospers that here make and sell various and quite qualitative things, therefore the relation to clothes, more than quiet.
Inhabitants of this country love nonconventional use of subjects of clothes and accessories, unexpected colour combinations. Are able to mix expensive and cheap things, to connect modern fashionable clothes with vintage, bought on "flea markets". Even very men of means in clothes will have inexpensive T-shirts and jeans, jersey of democratic marks. And here the ostentatious aspiration look richly here is considered a nasty taste sign.
The desire of youth, and all who likes to put on, look very unusual at times fashionably, is dictated by self-irony peculiar to British, desire to show the individualism and Own taste, contrary to opinion of fashionable authorities.
The choice of clothes at Englishmen, as well as all over the world, depends on in what sphere they work. When business concerns work or significant events British are able to put on in compliance with event. Englishmen consider that there are clothes for work and clothes on all other cases of a life. Men on work are standardly dressed in suits, light shirts and ties. And women prefer to carry classical things of dark colours – skirts in length to a knee, classical trousers, blouses, jumpers, elegant shoes. Seldom to whom will come to mind to put on in office a short skirt, jeans, топ with deep cut. And on the way to work on many it is possible to see convenient footwear on a flat sole with which on a workplace will replace with elegant shoes with a heel.
However, as notice English fashionable observers, at a choice of daily clothes the ordinary British has a certain confusion. If there is no occasion in an official suit or an evening dress, the typical Englishman at times does not know what to put on. Fashionable English magazines quite often criticise the compatriots that they look carelessly. And the easy negligence accepted in Europe and ease in carrying of informal clothes turns for inhabitants of England to absurd. For example, to a campaign on shops or on walk in park is quite comprehensible to go «in everything».
And though London, still, the best place where the true gentleman can get a faultless suit, Pushkin: «As the dandy London is dressed», - is dissolved in modern English space, and inhabitants of this nice country prefer convenience and simplicity more and more. To British to liking sports style and convenient Casual. Sports trousers, jeans and gym shoes can be contemplated both in a supermarket, and in a museum, and at theatre. Many carry backpacks and sports bags. And, both the sports footwear, and sports bags, according to British, are quite pertinent with business clothes.
To Englishwomen often gets for their appearance, them accuse of unwillingness to watch itself. But «English roses», remain to look true to the aspiration "naturally"! The English woman hardly begins to increase nails and to do nejl-art. A make-up if also is, very quiet, natural, and a hairdress, well matched. Any packings, more often hair of average length or short hairstyles, from ornaments - anything "shouting" and the expensive. Ladies of elegant age do not have aspiration to seem younger.
However, Englishwomen cannot be convicted of predilection for this or that style, their manner to put on is so various, as well as everything, as to an English fashion.
It is especially appreciable among young representatives «the fine Half ». Such impression, what not they look in fashionable magazines, and magazines"peep"behind inventions of the British girls.
English men also feel confidently and freely, choosing that is pleasant to them.
At conservatism all by, apparently, and moderation Englishmen can be very unexpected, and, it not ostentatious eccentricity, and their natural self-expression. For example, many are surprised with a manner of Englishwomen to carry shoes barefoot to the colds. Or to put on an evening dress, having added with its sports slippers, besides barelegged. But here all is normal and organic – barefoot persons with stockings, a sports suit with a tie etc.
For England, and especially for London, rebellious extremeness in the clothes, sometimes reaching grotesque is characteristic. First of all it concerns youth which the appearance shows musical or club preferences, and sometimes and simply own outlook.
And thus, here, as well as in any European country, it is possible to see set of the most traditional street clothes without any «sign signs».
And nevertheless, Englishmen have turned recently all foundations in the fashion world. It is said that the fashion for France is a high art, for Italy – some kind of fetish, and for England — a madness sort. For this reason in English streets probably all! London has got reputation of capital of a youth fashion and alternative styles.
But whatever, were «the fashion turns», on English street, still, it is possible to see the things which have passed worthy check by time to which the concept "tradition" approaches. On brick roadways by bright red pay phones, mail boxes and green fences pass men and women dressed in a coat with a hood and wooden buttons, the rubber boots-vellingtony, the well-known cage of Byorbari, suits in style of the English queen.
All this, connected together, also is "code" to understanding of England and London in which people accept a miscellaneous, at times opposite and leave the option, the right to individuality behind everyone who here lives.
Recently the British fashion designers have received wide recognition in "haute couture" world. This circumstance has caused distribution to an idea society of "abrupt Britain" that has led to blasting of many settled communications between manufacturers of clothes and buyers. So, in the late nineties the firm "Mark and Spencer" has been compelled to employ Some known experts in the field of haute couture for cardinal reorganisation of the industrial lines, including the well-known linen "Sent-Majkl".

Certainly, the fashion is the integral element of vital style and introduces considerable corrective amendments in the settled rules of etiquette and behaviour, for example, at visiting of restaurants. Except for the London hotel "Ritz" and traditional gentlemen's clubs "Pell-Mell", "Sent-Dzhejms" and "Pikadilli", visiting of restaurants in fashionable clothes became norm. Until recently British even after work were not included in the evening into restaurant without a suit and a tie, and the woman — in trousers. However the business dinner even is now inconceivable without obligatory attributes of English business: if you are not in a suit, your partners will be offended by such behaviour and the dinner most likely will not take place. More truly they will have dinner, but in other place and without you.

In general, considering more liberal relation to appearance of visitors at today's restaurants, all the same it is necessary to know precisely that in an institution where you gather, from you will not demand (if you the man) an obligatory tie. Besides listed above institutions, the tie is one of indispensable conditions of the admission in traditional London clubs - "Garrik", "Reforms" and "Ateneum". Besides, the clothes form is underlined in the official invitation to a lunch or a dinner, for example, "the clothes form daily" or "a black tie" that means "tuxedo". The form of clothes for men, certainly, automatically defines the form of clothes for women.

It is necessary to expect that the new approach to easing regulating the form of clothes of rules can lead to a wide circulation of interpretations. Society democratisation in this branch has generated such concept, as fashionable unessential clothes. And for one it means the ornamented vest, jeans and gym shoes, and for others — a polo-neck with black trousers and leather shoes. As a result all the same it shows English style.

Annual horse races on a hippodrome of "Askot" in the city with the same name, probably, more all are well-known for that representatives of society and legislators of a fashion gather for them. On "Askote" of the woman show the dresses and, certainly, obligatory attribute of all English races — hats. This event is widely shined in mass media, newspapers on the following  Day after races leave with a considerable quantity of the photographic materials, therefore each Englishwoman prepares for visiting of Askota, as model to photosession. Besides hats to the person the attention is caused by ladies' handbags of which Englishwomen too like to brag.
Man's shirts and shirts. For Englishmen it is the present cult. At everyone respecting London or  gentleman always on call is at least dozen shirts and shirts. And it is not simple shirts and shirts, and the presents, English. And thus they of the same firm «Hawes and Curtis», as those shirts which were bought in due time still by the father and the grandfather of this gentleman most respecting. And the gentleman is assured, what even its grandsons will carry English shirts of firm «Hawes and Curtis». Here it, the present fidelity to traditions! To traditions of quality and style! The gentleman knows that the present shirt or a shirt can be made only in its native England. All over the world know that the present shirts and shirts do only in England!


Traditsionalisty-Englishmen, going on the London stadium "Lords" to observe summer competitions cricket, will necessarily put on an exclusive club tie Marilebonsky cricket club together with a hat and a dark blue blazer, despite of possible heat. At visiting of the Royal regatta in Henli according to the rules of etiquette accepted in rowing club "Леандр", you are obliged to put on a corresponding shirt and a tie. As consequence, you will be limited at once in a choice of trousers and footwear. And it despite very warm July weather (the regatta always passes at the height of summer).
MERC - a symbol of the London fashion

Introduction

Fashion, certainly, the most dynamical phenomenon of our life. It – is eternal, after all it not only Each season shows us rapidity of tastes and predilections, but also that in it “best of the worlds” repeats, and, at last, the most important thing gives hope because lives Future. Thus the fashion always aspires to young and fresh impression:she wishes to rejuvenate. Therefore in a fashion the fine half of mankind - the weaker sex always was interested.
Collections of the Couturier are made not for imitations, and for meditations and inspiration. After all the woman not only consumes fashionable production, she lives ”in a fashion” and "fashion", at the expense of sharper understanding of novelty, introducing in a life all most organic of created by hands of fashion designers. It – a Fashion and as there are no Women without a fashion there is no Fashion without women.